Into the heart of the Dolomites:
This past July, my husband and I embarked on a week long trail running adventure through the Dolomites and it was an absolute dream come true. More than just a mountain range, the Dolomites are a destination where natural beauty, cultural richness, incredible cuisine and adventure seamlessly come together.
The Dolomites, set in the heart of northeastern Italy, are one of Europe’s most captivating mountain landscapes. Stretching across seven provinces—South Tyrol, Trentino, Verona, Vicenza, Belluno, Udine, and Pordenone—this dramatic range is shared among three Italian regions: Veneto, Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol, and Friuli Venezia Giulia. The Dolomites are typically divided into a three distinct regions: a Western Region, Central Region and an Eastern Region. During this trip, I spent time in the Eastern and Central Region visiting the villages of Cortina d’Ampezzo, Ortisei, Selva di Val Gardena, and San Pietro.
Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2009, the Dolomites are celebrated not only for their geological significance but also for their breathtaking scenery. Towering limestone peaks rise above rolling alpine meadows, crystal-clear lakes, and storybook villages where Italian, Austrian, and Ladin cultures intertwine.
This corner of Italy is so much more than mountains—it’s a full-body experience of nature, history, flavor, and culture. The lift infrastructure makes even the most dramatic terrain accessible to all levels, and the blend of Italian elegance and Tyrolean tradition creates something entirely unique.
Whether you want luxury lodges with spa days and wine tastings, or rustic rifugi with nothing but stars and silence, the Dolomites offer a bit of everything. And as someone who’s walked these trails, dined on speck and strudel, and watched the alpenglow set fire to the peaks—I can’t recommend it enough!
We started our journey flying into the Venice Airport and driving to Cortina d’Ampezzo, often called the “Queen of the Dolomites”—and for good reason. With chic boutiques, elegant hotels, and jaw-dropping mountain views in every direction, it’s where alpine glamor meets rugged natural beauty. We took the cable car to the top of Tofana peak where we were treated to spectacular views of the surrounding mountains and valley below. After hiking down we treated ourselves to my favorite aperitif, an Americano, and enjoyed the views of where the Women’s Downhill competition will be held in the 2026 Winter Olympics.
We then headed north to the stunning Lago di Braies — or Pragser Wildsee, as it’s called in German. With the Dolomites so close to the Austrian border, you’ll notice both Italian and German everywhere: on signs, menus, and even in casual chats with the locals. You can do an easy hike around the lake or this could be the start/end point to longer treks on the Alta Via 1 trail.
Next, we headed west to Ortisei, a postcard-perfect village tucked into Val Gardena. Pastel-colored buildings, flower-filled balconies, and a peaceful pedestrian zone made it one of the most picturesque towns I’ve ever seen. Running here felt like wandering through a living painting—green rolling fields, distant spires of stone, and the gentle sound of cowbells echoing through the air. It’s the perfect base for hiking, trail running, photography or just relaxing in the beautiful town with a spritz. Along the trails, you’ll find charming mountain rifugi, each with its own character, menu, and style. What they all share, though, are hearty homemade meals and the classic apple strudel — the perfect sweet reward! We were lucky enough to be there during an outdoor Bavarian festival where we enjoyed traditional Bavarian foods, beers and music during the day and then immersed ourselves back into northern Italy delicious homemade pappardelle with deer ragu for dinner.
After spending the night in Rifugio Sasso Piatto, we continued our run below the Sassolungo massif and visited the Langkolfehutte/Rifugio Vicenza before descended into the town of Selva. Selva is the last highest village in the Gardena Valley. Set in the middle of a number of great ski slopes, Selva is best know as a ski resort and will host the Audi FIS Ski World Cup in December for Super-G and Downhill. Atop the Ciampinio Cable car station, the rifigio had the best ravioli I’ve ever tasted with magnificent views of Marmolada Glacier, the only large glacier in the Dolomites.
From Selva, we explored the Vallunga, which is a beautiful narrow valley inside the Puez-Odle Nature Park with a charming Chapel at the entrance to the trailhead.
Lastly, we made our way to Val di Funes via the alpine pastures of Seceda and ending our journey in St. Magdalena.
Where to Stay:
The Dolomites are dotted with gorgeous hotels, but the properties I’ve highlighted here are right in the towns I visited, offering easy access to nearby trailheads. For a truly unforgettable experience, I also suggest spending a night or two in a mountain rifugio. Waking up surrounded by the dramatic peaks of the Dolomites is something you’ll never forget.
Cortina d’Ampezzo
Ortisei
Selva di Val Gardena